There were no surprises at this New Year's Eve bash except that these bottles of 1982 Bon Pasteur and 1982 Cheval Blanc were less impressive than usual. Previous tastings have revealed how variable the latter wine can be. There were no inconsistency problems with the 1982 Pichon Lalande, 1989 Haut Brion, or 1970 Pétrus. Readers who purchased the 1995 Verget Chablis Valmur will be glad to know that wine is still an infant in terms of development, but it is one of the greatest Chablis I have ever tasted. However, it should be given 60 minutes in a decanter prior to serving as it responds brilliantly to exposure to air. It's a shame the Dom Perignon Rosé is so expensive, but the 1990 is a brilliant champagne.